Chitin in anti-aging formulations

Technical paper by author Yash Kamath: Skin aging leads to decline in its functions such as increase in trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), decrease in the production of collagen,elastin and the extracellular matrix (ECM). The overall effect is the thinning of the skin, dryness, and wrinkling. The ECM acts as a material transport medium for the cellular entities like the keratinocytes in the epidermis and fibroblasts in the dermis. Environmental factors damage the skin chemically by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radicals.

The protection of skin from these insults requires a group of actives consisting of cell protectants, antioxidants, and immunomodulant compounds. In this technical paper the authors have found that the concoction of these ingredients in the form of an emulsion works much better when chitin nanocrystals (nanofibers) are added. A number of factors indicative of anti-aging effects, such as fibroblast proliferation, collagen increase, ATP production etc. are significantly improved by the addition of chitin. The effect is attributed to the biocompatibility of products of chitin breakdown. It can promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. Penetration of chitooligomers generate glucosamine and N-acetyl-glucosamine which are incorporated into the ECM by phosphorylation.

Source: “Cosmetic science in skin aging: Achieving the efficacy by the chitin nano-structured crystallites”, P. Morganti et al., SOFW-Journal, 136, 14-24 (2010)